FAKE OIL SYNDICATE BUSTED

As per title, please pay really good attention when dealing with engine oil. Recently, our boys in blue team just cracked down a fake oil syndicate which was based in Rawang. They (those fakers) reproduce those famous oil brands using the same jugs and label. There's even some incidents while the operation was held; mainly from the representative from the oil company itself.

According to the pics, there are plenty well known brands involved. All of Shell's Helix oil were re-produced; from regular dino to synthetic; probably a clear sign that these brand is famous in the market. There are also Pennzoil and Castrol brand caught in the pics. What worries me is, there's a bunch of label-less jugs in gray, which the jug design is IDENTICAL to Bardahl motor oil. Crap... I'm currently using this brand. Most of consumer nowadays try to avoid the common big and famous names of oil in Malaysia is because of the counterfeit issues but then, it seems that the much lowly rated (in Malaysia of course) brand such as Bardahl also might not as safe as we thought. Trying to comfort myself, at least the jugs spotted were in gray while the synthetic one is gold in colour; the one in my crankcase. But maybe there was a golden jugs but the reporter haven't snapped the pic... (I'm restless)

Big credits to http://ondscene.blogspot.com for bringing this matter to the public. You may get the full report by clicking here.

Bardahl Oil Jug

Caps Replacement : Code 7035

I've posted about this stuff before which can be reached here, but this time, I had the privilege of doing it to my ecu. Let me recall back the issue; if you owned a Mitsubishi car especially those 90's model, do take care of the capacitor in the ecu. Those caps are freaking vital such as vital as heart in human body. Do take note that Honda P30 ecus also exposed to this fragility too. One main reason is because, the capacitors used by the manufacturer were electrolyte type which uses an ionic conducting liquid as one of its plates. As this cap ages, so the body construction a.k.a the casing too. When a faulty capacitor is charged, the liquid-based electrolyte becomes unstable and breaks down, producing hydrogen gas. Since these types of capacitors are sealed in an aluminium casing, the pressure builds up within the capacitor until either the flat metal top of the capacitor begins to bend, or the rubber sealing plug is pushed down. Eventually the pressure exceeds the strength of the metal casing and venting occurs. When an electrolytic capacitor bursts, the acidic electrolyte will going to spill on the circuit board which eventually will further damage to the ecu.

There are 4 caps in 4G92 MIVEC ecu. When my ecu guru tested the caps, only 3 of them needs replacement while the other one seem perfectly working. A main reason why that one particular cap is still in mint condition is because it only regulate 5-volt connection while the other three were involve in higher voltage; 12V to be precise. The higher the voltage, the greater the strain the caps have to handle.

To make this post more dramatic, actually one of the three caps that have been replaced has shown some burn sign on the cap which indicate an "I've-replace-it-just-in-time-before-something-shit-happen" sign. This cap has served more than 10 years and as you may know, any electrical item with that kind of age can go nuts anytime without any further warning. Remember, it is way way much cheaper to replace those caps than to get another ecu; especially 4G92 MIVEC ecus. You've been informed.

Busted Aircond Compressor

On one fine day, I was rushing back from Putrajaya to KL using MEX highway. For those who used to travel using this route, you'll notice that hardly anyone obey the speed limit; which is ridiculously tagged at 90km/h . So, as I was travelling at 130km/h, there was a Wira with 17" alloys with super loud 4-tip exhaust complete with 3-feet GT wing (I ain't shitting you.. the spoiler was freaking high) hogging on the right lane. Being an almost considered driver, I followed behind the car (but not tailgating) for about 30 seconds until then driver give way as he moved onto the left lane. While I'm overtaking him, this driver with his 'Supa-Powa-Car-With-Supa-Loud-Muffla' floors his car as like; I'm racing with him. So, I was like "wtf dude!!". Since I'm not that defensive driver after all, I gave him a good run for what ever amount of money he has spent on his car; until he lost from my rear view mirror. Puas ati aku..

As I'm exiting the MEX highway trough Cheras/Subang exit, I switched on the aircond as it was very hot inside the car. Then I realize that my aircond wasn't cold. After I reached home, to my finding, my old aircond compressor making a weird noise; like something is snapping each time it was turned on. Crap. I went to my mech afterward and he confirmed that the compressor was dead. I told him about the outrun and he jokingly said that the driver must has cursed me or something.

A bad news about MIVEC part is, those taukeh will always look a way to cut your throat. It was quoted over $460 for a recond MIVEC compressor but then, settled for a 4G9X air cond compressor. As you can see, the OEM compressor is slightly bigger that the one that replacing it. Plus, my mech had to make a custom bracket to hold the compressor as it is slight difference between 4G92 MIVEC compressor with other 4G9X compressor which is way cheaper. Geee.. I was informed that MIVEC use a rotary type while normal one is piston type. The advantage of rotary type compressor is; the internal parts are lighter. You wont feel much of powerloss when switching on the aircond compared to piston type. But then, since it is lighter, it also much more fragile. Since I'm replacing the dead one with the piston type, there's a truth in that statement; the powerloss is noticeable now whenever the compressor kicks in. But I can live with it since, I don't floored the car whenever the aircond is on. Total repair.. RM600 for 1 piece of recond compressor + 1 brand new dryer + flushed aircond pipe + new compressor oil + R132 gas + compressor custom bracket + 1 set of Denso wiper :P

Ralliart Brake Reservoir Cover

I found this sock whilst repairing the central lock. Many including myself would ask, what on earth this thing is for? According to Spoon, their reservoir tank covers serve three purposes (Woww.. I couldn't figure out even one). One, they help keep the reservoir tank caps in place during racing and spirited driving, helping prevent spillage of vital fluids. Second, even if the caps are jarred open, the tank covers help contain the spill and minimize fluid loss. Third, the tank covers prevent dust and debris from accumulating on the tanks and potentially contaminating the brake fluid.

Ok.. point number 1 is quite BS to me as the factory reservoir cover is made from a very hard and durable plastic with rubber seal which could make one keep on bitching to open it once it has been tighten. So, it is almost impossible for the reservoir cover to pop out unless you banged into some walls or something. As it's capable to contain the fluid spill could make some good sense, but one still have to wonder, how much fluid this sock is able to contain since it not thick. The 3rd point seems to be clever, but then, again, it also related to the points above. If your reservoir cover is not doing it jobs properly, get it changed. Don't use this sock as an insurance because it's not. Get it for the sake of cosmetic.

When Alarm and Central Lock Went South

My central lock did give me some headache for a week or two. Whenever I arm the car using the transmitter, the door will lock and in a split second it will unlock the door back. On top of that, the lock latch on the driver side isn't locking properly which indicate, either the central locking gun has broken or the linkages were screwed. So I took it back to the shop I've bought and installed the alarm. To their finding, actually the wiring was the culprit. I'm quite surprise also since they are known as the one of the best in wiring job (as per claimed in Lyn.net). But then, even the mighty Microsoft did shit (remember Win ME?) They took more that an hour to troubleshoot it. Now everything is working fine.

Broken, Beat and Scarred Brake

I was driving on DUKE highway. As I'm passing 80km/h mark on the speedo, I felt strong vibration on my left-front of the car. A quick inspection told me that there might be a problem with the brake as there was heavy brake dust all over the wheel. Brought the car to my mech and it was discovered that the left front caliper has jammed. Maybe it's about time to get the front caliper serviced as I've done for the rear one 4 years ago. The service kit it self isn't too costly even though I knew my beloved mech already mark up the price for the stuff. Well, as long as the job done is well done, I don't mind paying a bit more.. Seriously, good service + cheap labour is an impossible combination nowadays.

My brake performance wasn't that convincing. I've changed to double layer brake booster/servo off from an Evo but I still feel that there are something lacking. I can almost never able to lock the front tire whenever I floored the brake.. and I don't have ABS on the car. Yes, I know that tire-locking ability isn't a way to determine whether the brake is good/strong enough. Maybe I should check the brake fluid hose. Anyway, I took the liberty of upgrading the front brake pad to Ferodo Zero. This pad is claimed to bite better than OEM brake pad and the brake dust produced is within acceptable range (as oppose to almost dustless on my OEM pad). I just finished bedded in the brake pad now and looking forward to trash it.

When Seal Ain't Sealing

I had this oil burning smell every time I wind down my window. The smell was intense if the engine is hot; such as after some wacking sessions. A quick visit to the workshop reveal that the seal around the oil sump need some attention. Due to my car ride height was very low, I've might went over some 'big fat bump' quite hard and swelled the seal. You can see that the base of the sump is dented, thankfully it ain't that bad. This 'treatment' is advised to do when you're doing an oil change since we have to drain the oil sump to start working.

It was quite amazed looking at the oil pickup screen. The passages (or more common phrase amongst us; holes) were so fine. The purpose of this screen is prevents foreign matter (such as lost washers, nuts and bolts) from entering the oil pump. Because of the screen is so so so fine; that makes me a fan and a firm believer of thinner grade of oil. Screw those 20W-50s. We don't live in the 60's or 70's anymore. Imagine those jelly-like oil forcing itself to squeeze into the screener in the morning; straining your hardworking oil pump.

After the old sealant was been brushes off, it gonna get some sanding using few grades of sanding paper until. After that, a new sealant paste was applied. This sealant looks like the stuff they use on cover rocker, but I was told it's kinda different between them. After the fitment, everything is fine, no more leaky and oily oil sump. Yey..